Exiting a show in the Times Square area, the first thing I normally do is think of somewhere else I want to go that is not anywhere near this overly-crowded Mecca-to-all-things-commercial. But now, with great delight, I can say I have found a haven from the chaos and it is just a couple of blocks away on 44th Street at Daniel Boulud’s recently remodeled db Bistro Moderne.
Chef Boulud is a considerable force in the culinary world, with restaurants all over the globe, including several in New York and knowing of the competitiveness in this field, I give kudos to any person who can sustain so many establishments, each with their own individual style. So it was high expectations that I went to db Bistro Moderne and in no way was I disappointed.
The space is modern, comfortable and perfectly lit, with the use of globe lighting and butchers’ paper on the tables hinting at the bistro theme. A new bar and grey leather booths provide places to linger with extraordinary cocktails or incredible wines but don’t be fooled into thinking that the casualness suggested by the word ‘bistro’ extends into the food or the service; Chef Boulud has elevated both to something quite exceptional.
To begin, a fragrant Tarte Flambée was delivered to our table, with gorgeous caramelized onions and tasty bacon. This simple dish really set the tone for the evening; classic bistro fare but presented in a modern, stylish way. We had chosen two very different appetizers, a dense pâté en croûte of guinea fowl and luscious foie gras but it was over the last morsels of the charred octopus that we competed, the dish was so fantastic. I have to say that if you have never eaten octopus, this is the place to do it as it is truly cooked to perfection.
Small portions of fresh pasta came after this, a burrata tortelli that my darling enjoyed and which thankfully kept his fork away from the wonderful parpadelle over which I was in raptures, due to the amazing rabbit ragoût that came with it. Paired with these dishes, the sommelier Joseph Camper brilliantly suggested that we try a little ‘Villers- Marmery’ champagne that was perfectly light and surprisingly appropriate. But is champagne ever inappropriate??
We had also made very different choices for our next course too, mine being a flavorful dish of veal which I choose largely because I’m such a huge fan of sweetbreads, that also came on the plate and which I thoroughly enjoyed. His striped bass in a roasted citrus jus was much lighter but just as delicious.
Desserts of café brulot and vacherin were our final courses, both wonderful, but I must admit that at this point my heart was completely stolen by the exquisite plate of warm madeleines that were delivered to the table, signaling the end of a beautiful meal.
Db Bistro Moderne is just another example of the incredible quality of establishments that Chef Boulud has in his portfolio. This restaurant will continue to be a success; it has few rivals in the area and the food, service and place itself are sensational. Now I know where to go in this part of the world. You will find me there feasting on octopus and madeleines
—Fiona Tedds
For more information, please visit dbbistro.com
The post Casual Elegance from Chef Daniel Boulud at DB Bistro Moderne appeared first on Downtown Magazine NYC.