There is always something delightful about going to dinner in a hotel as elegant and historic as the Pierre on Fifth Avenue. But with the announcement that the Sirio Ristorante was offering a special menu to celebrate New York Fashion Week, it seemed like an excellent opportunity to sample new chef Massimo Bebber’s cuisine. Perusing the prix fixe menu, available for both lunch and dinner, it was wonderful to see choices that will suit the calorie-counting, waistline-watching set without sacrificing the signature style for which the food of Central Italy is known.
I decided on tuna tartar to start, which was both deliciously fresh and perfectly seasoned. My dining companion had a beautiful salad of bitter arugula and velvety baby artichokes, garnished with salty slivers of tasty parmensan. Our second course, small plates of fresh pasta, were equally satisfying, although I coveted the roasted cherry tomatoes on his plate of garganelli since they exploded in your mouth like scrumptious little bombs. My gnocchi were a fabulously sensual experience, with the heady smell of truffle oil that rose from my bowl, the sight of the cloud of parmesan foam that floated on top and the delicious little pieces themselves that were the most beautiful texture in my mouth.
It was when we came to our entrée choices that there was a little dissent between the two of us but thankfully, he is a generous, sharing man who didn’t mind that I stole half his scallops which both of us were in raptures over. They were just the most amazing morsels; perfectly seared with a slight caramelization on the outside whilst remaining succulent and soft on the inside. The earthy chantrelle puree that accompanied them was the perfect balance to their sweetness. My swordfish was also cooked to perfection – for me, medium rare on this meaty fish really showcases its beautiful, delicate flavor.
There was no argument over dessert since there was only one choice but we both in heaven by then anyway; creamy ricotta cheesecake with a tangy citrus salad was the perfect end to a most memorable meal.
Our whole dining experience was overseen by the incredibly gracious and knowledgeable Massimo Schiavon, who is not only the restaurant manager but has also selected some amazing wines to pair with each course; we are still talking about the ‘Missoni’ Cabernet Sauvignon that elevated my gnocchi course into something sublime and the Sancerre Rosé ‘Les Marennes’ which perfectly complimented those to-die-for scallops.
It is always with great glee – and a certain amount of smugness – that you can feel you’ve truly made a discovery on the culinary scene. The combination of a remarkable chef, a charming manager and the dining elegance at Sirio is extraordinary and if this menu, which is remarkably good value, is anything to go by, I will become one of their regular customers.
For more information about Sirio or to book a reservation, please visit: siriony.com
–Fiona Tedds
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